First Weekend of Jazz Fest 2011

Well, it was a terrific start to this year's Jazz Fest! We enjoyed beautiful weather with sunshine: Friday was a perfect clear blue sky, Saturday and Sunday both had some clouds, which we like because it grants some occasional shade. Temperatures stayed mild, climbing to the mid-80s by Sunday, but with cooling breezes all 3 days. Humidity stayed fairly low throughout. We had Big Man's niece with us from Pennsylvania, her second Jazz Fest, and together we had a wonderful time.

Here are some highlights of the first weekend:

Friday, April 29
The very first thing we had to do was get us some Trout Bacquet -- *now* we're festing!! Then it was off to the Acura Stage, where we planned to set up our chairs, to hear the ever-reliable George Porter & his Runnin' Pardners. There is no better bass guitar player in the world than George, and we got funky for several tunes before leaving our chairs in the good spot we found, and walking over to the Blues Tent to catch some of the Joe Krown Trio (Joe, Russell Batiste on drums, and Walter "Wolfman" Washington on bass guitar). This is a group Big Man has sat in with at the Maple Leaf lots of times, and we like them a lot. Apparently so do a lot of folks, because the guys had totally *packed* the tent, but to enjoy the music, we strolled around a while as though looking for a seat. They were really hot, and the crowd was more than appreciative.

At the far back of the Gentilly Stage, which was as close as we could get, we laid down the wool Army blanket to groove on the subdudes with my old friend Johnny Magnie. The crowd was so tight along the left side of the stage that it took real skill to get through it. (Won't make that mistake again during Fest, and will take the track from here on in.) I do so love the harmonies of the 'dudes and we stayed for close to half the set, but there was the usual Jazz Fest scheduling of act upon act, and we had to move on to catch more bands on our list.

We walked through the Native American area so Big Man could get his annual Maque Choux fix on our way to listen to Donald Harrison at the Congo Square Stage. Donald was some smooth in his white suit, almost *glowing* on stage, his playing just as smooth and sophisticated. We passed a couple tunes in bliss here, and then we were on to Acura to catch us some great Jon Cleary on piano. Despite his lingering English accent, Jon could pass as a New Orleans-born piano man, and he's just as good as a raconteur. Totally enjoyable.

We got more food on our way to the Economy Hall Tent, to hear trad trumpeter Connie Jones, but we were early, and so caught Doreen's Jazz New Orleans band. We hadn't know who she is, until we saw her -- she's the black woman who play incredible clarinet on the street in the French Quarter. Every single time we've ever seen and heard her, we've been blown away by this woman's talent and musicality. So *that's* Doreen! We were delighted and cheered our heads off after every single solo.

We stayed for only a couple tunes with Connie Jones & his Crescent City Allstars -- the sound was awful, Connie's mike needed amplifying, and we were so replete after Doreen's hot set, that we ended up leaving. We had a destination in mind: the little Lagniappe Stage in the middle of the Grandstand, where Miss Meschiya Lake & her Little Big Horns were holding court and wowing the crowd. We had been going on and on about Meschiya to our niece -- her tattoos, her retro dress and hairdos, her amazing voice, her band's faithful and loving and lively recreation of jazz from the 1920s and 30s. They are *such* an experience, it's like you've gotten into a time machine and are actually experiencing the music of that era. They really belong in Economy Hall, but I suspect that the Jazz Fest powers-that-be fear that the older folks in that tent wouldn't appreciate all those "tats." Maybe next year they'll put her where she deserves to be.

We walked across the fest to get us some funk over at Congo Square with Ivan Neville & Dumpstaphunk. We spread out the Army blanket again and laid ourselves down under the sun, the sky like blue dome over us, and the music fell down on us from above, and I swear, felt like it was rising up from the earth itself, the vibrations entering our bodies from the ground. Especially loved "Put It in the Dumpster" and "Fight the Power."

Of course, it was useless to try to get into the Blues Tent to see Keb' Mo' -- the ushers were stopping people from entering, saying there were absolutely no seats at all left. But we stayed outside and got glimpses through the tent flaps. Wow! Keb' Mo' and his band were amazing, and seemed to be totally enjoying himself, grinning and dancing across the stage. We were glued to the spot, along with hundreds of other fans who couldn't get in, but we left satisfied.

We returned to our seats at Acura in time for former Led Zeppelin lead singer Robert Plant & this Band of Joy. Let's face it, Robert Plant does not have the voice he used to have, but now and again you heard a glimpse of it. He sure looks like an advertisement for how NOT to live -- as my sister L would say, he looked rode hard and put up wet. He had a good band with him -- one band member played acoustic, electric, dobro, and mandolin -- but we were somewhat sunstruck, and mindful of the days ahead. So we headed back to our car to party another day.

Saturday, April 30
A *very* early start on this day, as Big Man was playing with Rénard Poché and his band as the opening act on the Acura Stage. (The Jazz fest shuttle driver who picked us up in the musicians' parking lot said, all impressed, "Oh, the big stage!") Rénard is something of a stickler, so he required his band members to arrive a full hour or more before the scheduled start. The backstage trailers were VERY nice, with comfortable furniture, like white leather sofas and chairs, and glass-topped coffee tables, with a good spread of catering sandwiches and an ice chest filled with water, cold drinks and beer (!). Unfortunately, since Bon Jovi and his band were closing out the Fest later in the day, they were not giving out ANY Acura guest passes, for fear folks would try to use them later to get backstage. Bummer.

It was a great set -- Rénard is *crazy* talented, playing trombone, drums, recorder (actually, TWO recorders at one time!!), flute, and guitar, and his arrangements of familiar tunes (like "Eleanor Rigby") are totally amazing. Unlike many New Orleans musicians, the band had had several rehearsals in the run-up to the fest, and they were *tight* and hot (if I do say so myself, prejudiced as I am with Big Man playing). Keiko on keyboards all ladylike while her hands went crazy across the keys; Leslie Smith's voice all husky and sexy, her stage moves confident. The horns were great, everything went well. The crowd grew and grew as the set wore on, and they cheered and jumped and waved.

After the great set, the band headed back to the trailer and the Jazz Fest staff went out of their way to make us comfortable, maybe feeling guilty that we had to clear out by 1 pm, and not getting our backstage passes. They made us coffee and we ate ore of the catered sandwiches. Big Man got paid, Rénard congratulated and thanked everyone and we took the shuttle back to the car to get rid of all the horns (Big Man played both trombone and trumpet for the show), and Big Man changed out of the required black to a more fest-appropriate garb.

It was well into the set when we got back to the Acura Stage for the Dixie Cups, so we missed "Chapel of Love" (featured on our wedding invitations), but we did enjoy the rest of it. (Except for that part when they brought *Councilwoman Jackie Clarkson* onstage to sing with them -- ew.) Interestingly, the gals sang "America the Beautiful" and nearly the whole crowd stood up and some of the men took their hats off, as if it were the national anthem! We left our chairs there for later and took a walk.

As we walked by the Blues Tent J. Monque'D was holding forth, and once again, it was too full to get in. We kept on going, and were drawn into the Gospel Tent where the Gospel Soul Children were totally rocking out. We managed to find 3 seats, pretty close to the front, and man, did we get the spirit!! A lot of gospel groups will do something with high energy and then will alternate it with something slower, so they (and the audience) can catch their breath, but not the GSC. They went from one rockin' number to the next, and when you thought things couldn't get any more excited or high spirited, they topped it. I tell you the truth, we were almost exhausted when we left.

Needing to hear something much more mellow, we ambled over to Economy Hall and caught jazz banjoist Don Vappie & his Creole Jazz Serenaders. Great classics of the trad style, including tunes associated with Don, like "Salé Dame" (which could loosely translated as "Dirty Girl"). As always, the Economy Hall crowd was well and truly into it, getting into spontaneous secondlines and strutting around the tent. (Note: you can;t hardly go to Economy Hall if you don't have an umbrella, decorated or not, or at the very least a handkerchief to wave as you secondline through the tent.) The dance floor had couples gracefully going through their paces, and a very good time was had by all.

We were hungry again, and made our way to the middle food area, so that Big Man could get his second favorite dish, the absolutely fabulous Quail, Pheasant, and Andouille Gumbo from Prejean's. (That stuff is off-the-charts good!) While sitting on the soft green grass to savor the food, I could hear an almost unearthly good trumpet blowing from the direction of the Jazz & Heritage Stage. "Who is that?," I wondered.

I scanned my iPhone Jazz Fest app, and found an unknown band (to me) called the Midnite Disturbers was there. Big Man came back from the food booth, laughing, and sat down next to me. "Just had a funny trumpet player conversation," he reported. He said he was standing by the gumbo booth when two other older New Orleans trumpeters came over, and they were all grousing, in a friendly fashion, about the trumpeter I was admiring -- who was none other than Trombone Shorty!!! (Of course I loved that trumpet!) The older guys were saying stuff like, "How old were you when you first hit that high note?" and "Good thing he's not good-looking too -- oh wait, he is" and "Can you believe he's that good on 'bone AND trumpet?" and "Does he have to play keyboard too?" and "At least he's a nice guy, we can't even hate him." Funny.

So we rushed over to the Jazz & Heritage Stage, drawn like iron filings to a magnet, and caught the rest of *the completely fantastic and off-the-hook* set by the nearly-secret Midnite Disturbers. This crazy-good band had Shamarr Allen, as well as Troy Andrews, otherwise known as Trombone Shorty, on trumpet, three trombonists, including Cory Henry AND Big Sam of the Funky Nation, two or three saxes, and two funky tubas. Wowee-zowie! It was fantastic, completely and utterly fantastic. (I later discovered that the OffBeat had alerted fans that Shorty would likely be there, but I only read that afterwards.) It was a real, major Jazz Fest moment that I'll remember for a long long time. Wish you could have all been there. (Note to Jazz Fest: next year, the Midnite Disturbers need to be on a much bigger stage.)

Feeling all tingly with the Midnite Disturbers music -- and the roaring cheers of the fans -- still in our ears, we went back to our chairs at Acura for Irma Thomas. Irma's voice has deepened and roughened over the years, but in a really good way, and she puts on a great show with her big band. (Since it was Jazz Fest, they skipped that part where the band plays the first tune without her and then calls her up, and she just came on right away.) She sang some of her new stuff from the two post-K albums, brought up Marcia Ball as her guest for one duet (calling her "my sister from another mother"), and then ran through the golden oldies like "It's Raining," "Time Is My Side," "Breakaway," and of course "You Can Have My Husband But Please Don't Mess With My Man." She ended as she always does, with all of us with our "backfield in motion" for "Pocky-Way." Great satisfying set.

We stayed put as they finished setting up the stage for Bon Jovi (they had actually begun the preparations for Bon Jovi during *Rénard's set* at the beginning of the day!). The crowd grew and grew, but did not get as bad as it had been 2 years ago when Bon Jovi came to Jazz Fest (see my old Blog post from JF 2009). We stayed for several of Jon Bon Jovi's big hits, "Dead or Alive," "You Give Love a Bad Name" and a couple more, then we packed up our chairs and walked over to Gentilly to catch our niece's pick, Jason Mraz, who Big Man and I had never heard of (we don't listen to commercial radio, just 'OZ). Turns out he's a handsome young man playing Latin-tinged pop to a giant appreciative crowd. Very good, but we were tired from getting there so very early, and so we began the trek back to the musicians' lot. On the way, we paused at the Jazz Tent to hear some of Ahmad Jamal's set among the hundreds of fans listening from the outside. Great stuff, lots of passion and energy.

Sunday, May 1
Our last day of the first weekend of Jazz Fest also began early, as Big Man was playing the opening act at the Gospel Tent with Jo "Cool" Davis (who back in the day was the bouncer/doorman at Tipitinia's but who now is a double amputee in a wheelchair). Jo always does his own personal versions of traditional gospel tunes, with a horn line of 2 saxes and Big Man on trumpet. The tent filled quickly, Jo being a long-time local favorite, and things were going along swimmingly, when Jo called up his guest vocalist. The crowd really went wild when James "Sugarboy" Crawford was introduced, all slender and dapper in a natty sport coat and straw fedora. The man who in his salad days gave us the original definitive version of "Jockomo" now sings only gospel but is remembered and revered for his place in the New Orleans musical pantheon. He did a gospel number that was sung to the tune of "Danny Boy" with Big Man doing some really sweet blowing behind him. When the set was over, the crowd stood and stamped and hollered.

As soon as Big Man got paid and congratulated for the gig (and after I had the honor of meeting Sugarboy Crawford and conveying my long-time admiration), we went straightaway to Economy Hall to get good seat for New Leviathan, a perennial favorite beloved by many. This gave us the unexpected chance to hear The Last Straws trad jazz band celebrate their 50th anniversary playing together. These old guys (and they were all, believe you me, old guys) in their old-fashioned striped rep ties and straw boaters played exactly like musicians who'd been playing with each other for a half-century -- that is, almost like they could read each other's minds. They were terrific in their way, and they had lots of fans in the tent.

Almost no one left (and in fact, members of The Last Straws eagerly took seats saved for them in the audience) anticipating the New Leviathan Oriental Foxtrot Orchestra. After a long set-up (they're a BIG group), they launched into some of their treasure-trove of novelty songs from the early 20th century (my personal fave this set: "My Mariucci Does the Hoochie-Ma-Cooch"). What's so wonderful about New Leviathan is that the musicians take the music VERY seriously and don't make fun of it, no matter how silly the lyrics or premise of the songs (another good one was titled "You Heifer"!). And you gotta absolutely love the modern-day theremin they always wait to play at the end of the set, with its crazy, other-worldly sound. I've loved NLOFO since the old days in the atrium lobby of the old Hyatt Hotel, when they used to play the Friday Tea Dances, and it's great to get to hear them every year at Jazz Fest. (And thank god George Schmidt has returned to NOLA from his painting days in Italy!)

We took the long way back to our chairs at Gentilly, and caught a hot set by Li'l Malcolm & the House Rockers at the Fais Do-Do Stage (and yes, Big Man could not go past the Maque Choux booth without getting another bowlful!). We sat down in time to hear the end part of the Classic New Orleans R&B Revue with Frankie Ford & Jeanie Knight & the Blue-Eyed Soul Band. Big Man had been referred to the Fais Do-Do Stage to check out the Honey Island Swamp Band (they might want/need a trumpet player who can also do trombone), and we strolled over there to watch. They were great -- and they do need a trumpet, if I do say so myself -- but the sun was beating down mercilessly, and so we headed to the Grandstand for some relief. On the way, we watched some of the Storyville Stompers brass band on the Jazz & Heritage Stage; they must've invited everyone who'd ever played with them, for the stage was crowded with horns, must've been 16 guys on stage. Sounded great, though.

It had to be about 20 degrees cooler, no kidding, inside the Grandstand, and we were delighted by the set of pianist Tom McDermott with clarinetist Evan Christopher. Who knew those 2 pieces could be so satisfying and sweet? Very enjoyable and unexpected.

Once we were cooled off, we went back to the chairs at Gentilly for the end of Deacon John's Big Band's set. (They had old-fashioned bandstands and everything!). Wish we could've seen the whole set. We ran into Deac later on at Fest and told how great we thought he had been (and secretly said to ourselves that Deac needs to give Big Man a chance in his band -- Big Man is a natural for R&B-type playing).

Carrying the Army blanket for seating, we rushed over across the field to Acura for Dr. John & the Lower 911. The crowd was of course gynormous, but I spotted a parishioner sitting on the grass by herself, and offered a spot on the blanket. We all sat together and had a great time as Mack went through all my favorite tunes, just as though he had taken my requests. His medley of "Golden Splinters" with "Night Tripper" was terrific. Then he called out for his guest, the great trumpeter/arranger/ composer/producer Dave Bartholomew, who rolled out in a wheelchair. The main next to me checked his iPhone and announced, "91 on his next birthday!" and we all aahed and oohed. (And I told Big Man, whose birthday is next week, "See, darlin, 40 more years of blowing trumpet!") To our absolute amazement, Dave did indeed have his horn and not only blew it, he tore the place up, making his trumpet talk and squeal with a mute, and soaring notes heavenward. Good Lord, that was incredible! Another Jazz Fest moment to be savored and treasured.

Even though we knew the tent would packed like a sardine can, we hurried over to Economy Hall to at least listen from the outside to Pete Fountain's set, for who knows how many sets the old guy has in him. Tim Laughlin was sort of backing him up, but Pete was really playing his "licorice stick" and doing a helluva job. Among the mob massed outside we ran into and exchanged hugs and kisses with several friends, including the lovely Yvette Voelker of the Pfister Sisters (they play the Fest next wekeend). She and Bog Man had to spend some time praising the Finale music app for Macs and iPads. We left after Peter blew the tent down with "Basin Street Blues."

We returned to our chairs and waited for Tom Jones to come to the Gentilly Stage. Big Man and I talked, and we agreed that if all he did was a Vegas-type revue of all or most of his hits, it would be a satisfying show. We sat back and enjoyed the breeze, and blessedly the sun went behind some clouds and it was more than comfortable. Without our noticing, the band must have taken the stage, and suddenly our chairs began to vibrate with a heavy bass beat. We looked up, and there was nothing but a trio -- bass, guitar, and drums -- on the stage, hitting a heavy blues beat, and then Tom Jones (looking fabulous) took the stage to cheers and screams. He proceeded to do 3 old-time gospel songs in a row, including a shiver-inducing "God Almighty Gonna Cut "Em Down." Big Man and I exchanged looks. This was not at al what we expected, but this was *terrific."

Then, Tom introduced another song, and 2 really attractive (no, HOT) female back-up singers came out and they did a couple numbers with him. And then, a pianist came out and they did more tunes. We finally got it -- he was slowly and dramatically building up the band onstage, and at each point, you were completely happy, not thinking anything was missing. And then a full horn line came out and they blasted into a classic version of "Delilah" with the whole crowd joining in on the familiar chorus ("Why, why, why, Delilah...").

Each tune was introduced by Tom telling a story about how he got the tune, his conversations with the writer or with someone who had recorded it before him (like Elvis!). He was informative and interesting and gracious. His voice was fine, almost as if no time had passed. He had also grown into his looks and was, if anything, even better looking than he was when younger. There was hardly a woman of any age or orientation who wouldn't given him some. (And yes, if you have to ask, there was indeed underwear thrown up on stage!)

When the horn line broke into the familiar intro to Randy Newman's salty "You Can Leave Your Hat On" we screamed our approval. Tom's cover was so smoking hot it was surprising that any clothes remained on in the audience at all. The set was over before we knew it, the sun hanging low to our left, the sky turning all rosy, the crowd shouting and screaming for more. After we were almost hoarse, they came back out and to our gobsmacked surprise, they launched into "Pocky-Way"! (Really, I'm serious!!) Tom said, "I sing this lots of places, and people just don't get it -- they don't understand this song. But I know you will and I hope you'll join me in singing it." Well, who could stop us?? So we all backed up Tom Jones in singing our very own Mardi Gras Indian song. Amazing and wonderful.

Just as I was losing hope, Tom went into Prince's "Kiss" as his final encore, and while I have a beef with the Jazz Fest cameraman (and I KNOW it was a man, and straight at that!) who focused on the gorgeous back-up instead of Tom, for pete's sake, it was a completely satisfying end to an incredibly satisfying and unexpected set.

As the sun went down, we walked to our car, satiated, tired, excited, and happy. And thus ended the first weekend of Jazz Festival 2011.