I'm late reporting on the annual ride of the first-to-roll Carnival krewe, the Phunny Phorty Phellows, which by tradition is held on the night of Epiphany, January 6th, also known around here as the first day of the Carnival season. (I'm late because Big Man took the laptop with him to New Jersey, and I'm used to posting these from home using the laptop. Not a good excuse, I know.)
The PPP are a revival of an older organization from the late 19th century that went defunct at some point and were reborn in the early 1980s. Their deal is pretty simple. A group of costumed revelers meet at the streetcar barn, drink and eat kingcake. Whoever gets the baby is the "Boss" of the evening, their name for their "king." Then, along with their trusty brass band -- it's been the Storyville Stompers for some years now -- they all pile into a decorated streetcar and ride the streetcar line, throwing beads and stuff to whoever's on the street. Afterwards, the group repairs to their "bal masque" for some hard partying. (This year's ball was to be held at the new Rock'n'Bowl with Benny Grunch and the Bunch for your listening and dancing -- and laughing -- pleasure.)
Last year, in a driving rain, the PPP had their gathering in the Canal Street barn, since the St. Charles streetcar was not yet back post-Katrina. (You can read all about it in my post from back then.) But this year, they were back where they belong, in the Willow Street streetcar barn, across from the Carrollton Station bar (which, as you might expect, does a brisk business).
It was really, really COLD on January 6th -- in fact, we were in the middle of this hard-core winter freeze that had gripped the whole country. New Orleans was actually below freezing for several days in a row, which, as you might imagine, we're not equipped for. The good folks of the Phunny Phorty Phellows were game, however, and most had on layers *under* their costumes, so as not to spoil the effect. (A few had had to put coats on on top of their costumes, which marred the look.) A much bigger crowd than last year's was there to see them off, including goth young people, families with young children, older folks, and much media. Despite the cold, everyone was in a terrific mood. There was much kissing and wishing of "Happy Carnival" and even "Happy Mardi Gras" (I know, I know, too early, but the distinction seems to be getting lost).
Many in the crowd, like my sister and brother-in-law and I, had fortified themselves with adult beverages from Carrollton Station before braving the cold. Folks huddled in clumps for warmth, and to gossip. The mayor was there to see the PPP off and to officially proclaim the beginning of Carnival. (Gee, we've never needed his say-so before and where was he last year?) Most folks politely declined, in the spirit of Carnival, to boo him, but a few people could not resist.
The proclamation done, and with the band's fanfare, the PPP folks filed onto their streetcar -- there was a proctor at the door to make sure everyone had a costume on -- packed themselves in tight, and, with the cheers and waves of the crowd, they were off. It was reported later that St. Charles Avenue was lined with a bigger-than-normal crowd of well-wishers and parade-goers, a good sign for the parades to come. I managed to score a necklace of giant beads in the traditional purple, green and gold, so I was happy.
Later, at a nearby BBQ restaurant on Oak (Squeal -- we recommend it), the Mayor and his bodyguard came in to pick up their take-out dinners. He was surrounded by people who wanted to shake his hand or take his picture with their cellphones. I felt the Mayor was lucky that Big Man was out of town, or he might've ended up with a piece of Big Man's mind.
Despite the weather, a good start to Carnival 2010.
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